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THE EARLY BEGINNINGS
Firstly
you have to at least go down to the beach and watch other people surfing. If this
doesn't put you into a dream-like state and have you dancing along the beach wanting
to dive on in and steal someone's board then perhaps you're not really destined
to be a surfer.
Next you hook up with some spunkster
of a surfer and tell him how much you just want to ride a wave. If you're lucky
he'll take you under his wing and give you a few tips.
Then it's time to get your first lot
of gear. Go to your local surf shop and find a board and there's heaps of different
shapes and sizes. I got a fish shaped board in black - pretty rare but the guy
behind the counter was sure this was the board for me. But that was my first board
- I'm onto my sixth now.
Don't forget your wax, your wetsuit,
your fake tan, your hairstyle, your surfy clothes and then of course you need
a cool wagon to put all your gear in - unless you live in Sunset Cove and then
it's cooler if you walk down the street with it. Hey, if you're a real surfy then
you will probably spend every last penny you have on looking the part.
TAKING
LESSONS
Certainly don't
expect to be a surfing legend within a week. I mean just getting your wetsuit
on can be a mission in itself. Never try to put it on wet or you'll end up stuck
in the thing in a weird position and will have to embarrass yourself by asking
someone to help you.
Once you've squeezed
into that you might want to take it for a test run. Take a flying leap into the
sea and hope that it helps keep you afloat, keeps you warm and the brighter it
is, the better - gotta watch those sharks.
Some people choose
to swim in their jeans which is pretty risky and Grampa once knitted me a wetsuit
and I was unbelievably lucky to survive! The wool got sopping wet and dragged
me under and the next thing I knew Silver Lining was giving me mouth to mouth
on the beach. I tried it again the next week but he evaded my calls for help.

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